ORC Fall 2023: Bedroom Transformation

Step 1: Door + Window Trim

The first step was the framework of the room—door and window trim. I first started updating our door and window trim when I installed battens in our primary bedroom project, so I replicated those steps for Isla’s room. Three sizes of primed pine boards were utilized for this project: 1×2’s, 1×4’s and 1×6’s. For the door and window trim I used 1×2’s and 1×4’s. For specifics, you can follow the detailed how-to here.

Step 2: Baseboards

After door trim, baseboards were next! I used 1×6’s for all of the baseboards, which meant they are all 5.5 inches in height. The first baseboard I installed butted up against the door trim for a tight fit. It’s best to start there because a square, 90°edge is needed to meet the trim of the door.

All other baseboard joints and corners should have a mitered cut. For example, where one baseboard meets another (the right image below), I make both cuts at a 45°angle. This method makes those joints less noticeable than a butt joint. Meanwhile, the corner joints can be a little bigger than a 45°angle, as most homes do not have square walls and you may end up with large gaps like I did.

I should note that I do not use adhesive for my baseboards, just brad nails. If you’re unsure or unable to secure to studs, nail in different directions for a more secure fit.

Step 3: Installing the “Board”

From the baseboards, I needed to work my way up, which meant adding the board of the “board and batten”. This step isn’t absolutely necessary—if you have flat walls, you can get away with not putting up boards. On the other hand, if you have textured walls, you can either opt to live with the texture or smooth it out by skim coating.

I used hardboard for my “board” because it was one of the cheapest options—about $14 for a 4’x8′ piece. Additionally, it is only 1/8 inch thick. This was important because I was installing battens on top of the boards (versus in between). Because of the moulding above, I had to install this way. Otherwise, I would have installed the boards behind all of the top rails as well.

Step 4: Wainscoting Top Rails

For the upper trim work, I used a combination of millwork and moulding. I’ll cover the moulding next, but because it is sandwiched in between the top rails, I wanted to go into a little detail.

The horizontal top rails are 1×4’s and the ledge is a 1×2. So, above the hardboard, I installed a 1×4, then the ornamental moulding, then a 1×4, and then a 1×2 turned on its side, so it’s vertical height is only 3/4 inch. This is what creates the ledge and gives the wainscoting some dimension.

The install for these was very similar to the baseboards. It was important for the first top rail to be as level as possible because the moulding installed above needs to fit perfectly, and therefore needs a level surface to rest on. Just like the baseboards, for all of the top rails, I used a 45 degree mitered cut to join any two boards.

Step 5: Decorative Moulding

If you remember back to the plans I shared above, the ornamental moulding fits in between the two horizontal top rails. Ornamental Moulding has a beautiful variety of decorative millwork to transform your space, which I’ve shared here. These were all cut to the same height of 10 inches, which made cuts super easy. I ended up creating a stop block, which allowed me to make accurate repeated cuts.

While cutting the moulding, I learned a helpful trick. While your blade is spinning, glide it across the face of your moulding. I found that this creates a very clean initial cut. Then, cut all the way through. I noticed my cuts came out so much nicer using this method!

Step 6: Installing the Battens

For the battens, I used primed pine 1×2’s. Because the top rail was installed above the hardboard, instead of on top, the battens would need to be trimmed to fit properly. The hardboard was 1/8 of an inch, so that’s approximately how much I would need to rip off. This step is not necessary in most cases, but because I needed to install the top rails to the wall, instead of the hardboard, this was the route I took. I used my table saw to rip them down before installing.

During the design process, I determined I liked the battens at 10 inches apart. You can either measure for each batten or create a spacer for faster install. If you’re wondering where to start installing the battens, I planned for this… If you remember back to when I cut the hardboard, I specifically made the seams where I knew there would be a batten. So, I placed a batten over the seams of the hardboard and worked from there. After measuring and marking placement for a batten, I would use my level to make sure the batten was plumb and then secured using a brad nailer and 2 inch nails.

Step 7: Finishing Work

After everything is installed, all the finish work can begin. While it can be tedious, it is also usually the most important and can make all the difference in completing the look of wall paneling. This step involves caulking and apply wood fill to all of the seams and visible joints.

Caulk is always applied where two pieces meet at an angle, whereas wood fill is applied on flat surfaces, like nail holes or where two boards meet flush. Remember that wood fill can be sanded (and needs to be sanded down after it dries), whereas caulk cannot. Therefore, any excess caulk needs to be cleaned up before it dries. I usually keep baby wipes handy for easy cleanup!

Step 8: Paint

This was the first time I had ever used my paint sprayer inside. Let’s just say, I learned a lot! I cannot stress enough about the importance of prep before painting, especially when using a paint sprayer. I wrapped the entire room in plastic and still, I had overspray—on the carpet, past the door, behind the plastic. The second coat of paint went better—I tightened up the plastic, put protective film on the carpet and wore better PPE.

After the second coat of paint, I immediately removed the protective plastic and allowed the breeze and fans to assist in airing out the room. The second that plastic came down, I was blown away with how beautiful and cohesive the paint color made all of the trim work and wall paneling.